In an era where environmental degradation and unchecked consumption are wreaking havoc on our planet, The Revival emerges as a beacon of transformative change. Founded by visionary Yayra Agbofah in Accra, Ghana, this grassroots initiative is igniting a revolution. With a focus on upcycling textile waste and advancing sustainable development, The Revival offers tangible solutions, empowers marginalized communities, and fuels a global movement towards environmental and social justice.
The Global Textile Waste Crisis
The magnitude of the textile waste crisis is staggering. Ghana, located on the coast of West Africa, is the 9th largest importer of used clothing globally, importing $164 million worth of second-hand clothing in 2022. Every week, 15 million second-hand garments flow into the country, mainly from countries like the United Kingdom ($64.7M), China ($40.8M), Canada ($10.6M), the Netherlands ($7.82M), and Poland ($6.19M). Ghana’s role as a dumping ground for the global North’s unwanted clothing has severe consequences. These clothes, locally referred to as “obroni wawu” (which translates to “Dead White Man’s Clothes”), are often of poor quality, and up to 40% of these imports end up as waste, either dumped illegally or burned, polluting air, land, and water. This waste not only destroys local ecosystems but also turns Ghana’s coastal and urban areas into landscapes of discarded fashion.
Yet, amidst this chaos, The Revival demonstrates the power of collective action to disrupt entrenched systems. It challenges the structures that perpetuate waste and exploitation, showing that individuals and communities can turn this tide if empowered to act.
At the heart of this bold movement is Kantamanto, West Africa’s largest second-hand clothing market. For over 20 years, Agbofah witnessed Kantamanto’s engulfing mountains of discarded garments – symbolizing both global excess and local burden. But in these mountains, he also saw opportunity. Kantamanto became the crucible of creativity, sparking Agbofah’s mission to reclaim fashion, redirect waste, and rewrite the narrative for the future of the industry.
In 2021, fueled by frustration and a fierce determination to reclaim agency, Agbofah launched The Revival. This movement was a rebellion against the systemic inequalities that force the global South to pay the environmental price for the excesses of the global North. From the ground up, The Revival set out to dismantle destructive economic models, turning textile waste into fashion statements that confront and challenge the status quo.
At the core of The Revival is the art of upcycling – an alchemical process that turns forgotten, discarded rags into sustainable fashion. Each piece created by The Revival is a declaration. By transforming materials like denim, leather, and fabric scraps into innovative clothing, Agbofah and his team redefine waste as a source of limitless potential. Denim vests and jeans modified into protective clothing for farmers are symbols of resistance and renewal.
The Revival is about transforming lives. The project fosters creativity, offers meaningful employment, and cultivates entrepreneurial skills within the local community. Through intensive professional training programs ranging from three to six months, individuals are empowered to become skilled artisans and change-makers in their own right. The Revival builds a network of empowered individuals ready to drive change from the grassroots.
Collaborations and Global Reach
The impact of The Revival extends far beyond Ghana’s borders. Through collaborations with global organizations, exhibitions, and summits, The Revival has taken its message to the world. From showcasing its work at “What Design Can Do” in Amsterdam to inspiring conversations at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, The Revival has built a platform that amplifies its mission, forging global alliances to tackle the textile waste crisis head-on.
One of the most recent showcases of The Revival’s work is an exhibition at the SPLOT Gallery in Sopot, Poland. The exhibition, a part of the Festival of Photography “Within Sopot” refers to the harmful impact of the global North, particularly its textile industry, on the global South, encapsulating the concept of waste colonialism. This exhibition brings to light the consequences of excessive production and consumption and their devastating environmental effects.
The exhibition, which presents the dynamic work of The Revival through photographs, videos, and installations, offers a profound look into how African artists and activists – led by Yayra Agbofah – are questioning the values and economic systems of the global North while redefining sustainable development. Through their innovative fashion, art, and social projects rooted in upcycling, The Revival emerges as a powerful force for global social change.
The exhibition invites viewers to journey through five thematic spaces, each offering deep insights into the world of The Revival:
- Room 1 – Burden – Where Our Unwanted Clothes Go
This room confronts the overwhelming influx of discarded clothing from the global North into the South, where the burden of waste is disproportionately felt. - Room 2 – Rebirth – The Second Life of Waste
A testament to The Revival’s upcycling process, this space showcases how waste is transformed into beautiful, sustainable fashion. - Room 3 – Manifesto – Towards a New Consciousness
Here, The Revival’s vision for a sustainable and just future is articulated, urging the world to embrace a new consciousness in fashion and consumption. - Room 4 – Back to the Roots – The Earth Has Its Weight
An exploration of humanity’s intrinsic connection to the Earth, this room emphasizes the importance of ecological balance in a sustainable future. - Basement – Welcome to Kanta – Kayayei’s World
A powerful, immersive depiction of the lives of kayayei, women in Ghana who carry heavy loads in the markets, highlighting their role in the textile waste chain.
The exhibition features the works of The Revival artists and collaborators: Yayra Agbofah, Natalija Gormalova, James Wormanor, Nana Frimpong Oduro, Raymond Baffour, Emmanuel Sarpong, and Ben Anang. Curated by Ula Kahul and Małgorzata Popinigis, it promises to be a thought-provoking exploration of waste, sustainability, and art. The exhibition is open Monday through Thursday from 12:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. and Friday through Sunday from 12:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Educating for a Sustainable Tomorrow
Education is at the heart of The Revival’s mission. Agbofah understands that systemic change begins with the next generation. By working with institutions like Central Saint Martins and the London College of Fashion, The Revival spreads knowledge about upcycling and sustainable practices. Through courses, lectures, and workshops, it equips young designers with the tools they need to break away from the unsustainable practices of traditional fashion. The future of fashion is being reimagined – and The Revival is leading the way.
The Revival’s influence continues to grow through its participation in major international exhibitions and forums. After the exhibition in Sopot. Agbofah will take the stage at the Business Fashion Environment Summit 2024, where he will bring The Revival’s mission into the global spotlight, urging industry leaders to embrace systemic change.
The Revival is building a global movement that transcends borders, defies conventions, and demands change. As it turns textile waste into bold, sustainable fashion, The Revival redefines what fashion can be: a force for empowerment, a driver of environmental stewardship, and a catalyst for global equity. Through its unwavering commitment to education, collaboration, and systemic change, The Revival demonstrates that the power to create a sustainable future lies in the hands of everyday people. In the face of a crisis created by systemic excess, The Revival proves that grassroots action can lead to global transformation.
As the world navigates the complexities of a future shaped by environmental crises, The Revival stands as a testament to the fact that radical change is not only possible – it is already happening.
